Oh, sure. He laughed at me and made a few jokes about me to my newly met colleagues. But how was I to know the cops don't even carry guns here? Erbil,like most of Iraqi Kurdistan, is peaceful. I did see a couple of the police officers with sidearms but that's about it. The only soldiers I saw were at the entrances to the many, many ministries and at Erbil International Airport. I'm thinking there's probably a Ministry of Ministries.
My emails to Ali, in Samawah, certainly contained more than a hint of my nervousness about my first trip to Iraq. The first hours of deciding were filled with mental videos of me; in a cross-fire (but not wounded); near to an exploding car (but far enough away to not be injured); and, of course, me as a kidnapping victim. I'd heard that Erbil was safe and the few I knew how had been there told me not to worry. Ali promised to meet me at the airport. So I worried anyway, and decided to go.
Baghdad 2005 and Mosul 2011 were on my mind. What the hell happened to Mosul anyway. This past year has been a horrendous slide. Hanna'a tells me of her folks not letting her go out of the house except for school, or maybe shopping, but never alone. Long boring hours listening to the same music over and over, cleaning the already clean house, and staring at the walls. Tears threaten to run from her eyes as she drops back into the details of her uncle's kidnapping, still fresh after only 10 days. There were desperate calls from him as other prisoners of this gang were shot and killed, had hands amputated, had heads cut off as he was forced to watch. "We sold everything. All the family sold. They let him go, but his is ruined," she sobbed...
where was I? Oh, yeah,
I'd been invited to take part in the 2nd ICSSI conference in Erbil, Iraq. Some 150 Iraqis activists, and peace and social workers, along with about 100 'internationals' of various organizations (from huge, like the UN, to tiny like 121Contact) attended.
We were there to assist the Iraqi NGOs as they planned campaigns for the co
ming year.
The sessions of large and small groups ran incredibly smoothly and you could hardly feel the Kurdistan/Iraq tension. The Iraq/USA tension was another matter. We were only three Americans at the conference and a couple of times the anti-USA anger came out sideways at us. But we can take it, and the difference between the US government and its people, and the American peace workers was quickly pointed out by our Iraqi defenders.
Don't get me wrong. The Iraqi/Kurdish divide exists, and there are some private comments attested to this; some more agitated than others.
"Look," a man from the southern city of Basra said, "When you land in Erbil there's no Arabic. Only Kurdish and English. Look, here on every Iraqi passport...look! Arabic, English, and Kurdish." His voice keeps rising as he nearly shouts, "Why should I carry Kurdish with me everywhere?" I'm glad we're down the road, out of earshot.
Security was tight at the conference, but not so tight that someone wasn't able to walk off with my Nikon. Yes, I left it alone on a ledge as we all rushed in from our tea break to watch a marvelous performance by young Iraqi actors. They were great. I couldn't understand more than a stray word, here and there, but I got it! Or so the producers told me as I recapped the themes. I hope they weren't just being polite.
On the other side I met a few Iraqi Kurds who once were happy to accept the intellectual capital fleeing from the South but are now resentful of the competition in jobs,housing, and attention. In my narrow focus I said to greg, "They'll have to deal with this." He answered, "Maybe not." And then recited a list of "peaceful separatism regions" where mild anti-other-snobbishness takes the place of bullets and bombs...Catalonia, Extreme Northern Italy, Sardinia, Quebec, ...
I learned a lot this trip. I watched experienced hands in Global civil Society movements, some part of the WSF, gently (sometimes not so gently) nudge the leaders of Iraq's NGOs to take charge of their own projects, recognize that they are part of a struggle larger than Iraq, and work together on common causes even though they don't agree on everything.
If I wasn't so tired I'd say more about the Iraqi youth at the conference.
They are a movement unto themselves. Facebook and twittered and music'd into a world their folks don't have a clue about. They've opened channels among young Iraqis in all parts of Iraq.
"OK. OK," Mohammed said to the UN guy. "We don't need more of your surveys and your statistics. If you want to know the problems facing Iraqi youth just ask me. Let us have some input into what is decided. You can spend some of your money helping instead of collecting more informations." These young people who are activists hold onto hope. They see change that others are unaware of. They have crossed divides of political violence, and they intend to continue to build the new Iraq in a non-violent way.
Iraq may not get there tomorrow. There will be serious setbacks, but lookout! They will get there. Inshallah.
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